Several people have asked about the pastels I have coated with acrylic. The process evolved over several years of experiments. My primary objective was to protect the art while avoiding the need for a reflective steet of glass or Plexiglas. I have experimented with various methods... some failed... But, eventually I figured it out. I use soft pastels of various brand names. I use 100% rag acid free paper. And for most work, I use 150 lb. (or thicker), hot pressed paper. My pastels are not done in the manner which I see most pastelist doing. First, I seldom blend colors physically. More often I use a pointillist approach and create small dots or squiggles of one color next to another. Nothing very thick. I often use the harder "Nupastel" type of pastel and sharpen the square sticks to a point to create very small lines or dots of color. (using one sheet of sandpaper per color flat on the table and rubbing the pastel to a point on four sides). Knowing I will eventually use liquid acrylic (Liquitex Varnish or Medium) to coat the pastel image (which would otherwise, once wetted, warp the paper), I first build a wooden panel (usually a sheet of "door-skin" with 1"x2" boards at the rear outer edges). See http://www.johnannesley.com for the professional panel maker I often use. I seal the panel with an oil base primer so the wood will not contaminate the back of the paper. I then saturate the paper with water (like a watercolorist might do) and while still damp, gently stretch it over the panel (staples at the edges like an oil painter would stretch canvas). The panel provides a permanent drawing board and the paper, once dry, is tight like a drum. The papered panel is then ready for the pastel image. Once I have finished the pastel, I usually apply one coat of spray fixative to help minimize smearing as I then use a small brush to apply the colorless clear acrylic right on top of the pastel. I use a small brush (#1-3) and keep to one color at a time to minimize smearing. If smears occur, I try to use them as part of the image or wipe them off before the acrylic has a chance to dry. Working with small areas of color (dots of about 1/8" average) the smears are also small. If you work with thick amounts of pastel this part of the process is a bit tricky if not impossible. The acrylic has to penetrate the pastel and not have a pocket of dry powder under the layer of acrylic. After I have given most of the image a single coat with the small brush, I then use a larger brush (a 2"-3" brush) and cover the entire image filling in all the small "border areas" between colors. Usually two coats applied in opposite directions. More layers or thick layers of acrylic will bloom or cloud the colors and are not advisable. I experimented with an air compressor spray but found it less successful and the equipment clean-up was very time consuming. There is a considerable difference in the look of the pastel once it is touched by the acrylic (not unlike what occurs if you used a spray fixative). If you are a "pastel purist" you would probably not like the changes. In my case, I consider the change to be acceptable and plan for it... Especially since there is no longer any need for glass to protect the image. Because I had earlier stretched the paper while it was wet, the final application of the acrylic moisture has no warping effect on the paper. I leave the paper attached to the panel, but it could be removed if necessary. Usually, I just frame the whole thing as it is. As you can see with several works on my web site, I often create (in pastel) a trompe 'loeil mat around the image area. With the panel behind and the acrylic in front, there is little that can damage the art once it is framed.
I have often used acrylic inks, pencil and watercolor (after I have mounted the paper) before I start using the pastels. Taking advantage of the characteristics of each medium... details with the pen or pencil... softness with the watercolor... and color and texture with the pastels. A multi-layered, multi-flavored cake. You just have to do the layers in correct order. On one occasion I even used the pastel dust I had saved from the sharpening process and mixed it directly with the acrylic "varnish" and applied it to the prepared panel with a brush. A pastel painting... soft colors (more blended this time) and immediately protected. Another look.
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